I know this has probably been talked about over and over.
I ran out of heads to use for my figure so I have to start making casts of heads. I use smooth-on silicon for the molds and I started using micromarks cr-300. The head comes out white and very sturdy.

So now on to the point. Painting, I use model master acrylic flesh tones but they don't always seem to come out right. I would like the skin to look as I guess factory painted as posable instead of like paint. Does any one have a different paint or techniques they would recommend? Normally I use Tamiya paints but they don't have any flesh tones they I have found.

Also for the eyes I know the jcwiki has a section on it and I have tried what it says but how do you paint with a tooth pick or a pin. I’ve tried this and I just can't get enough paint to come off the tooth pick and on to the eye. All I can get is a speck that is way too small for an eye. Does any one have any pointers? Besides what’s on the jcwiki?

The wiki also says use a brush Since I wrote it I wrote from my own perspective, wherein I always use a brush, the guide may not be totally suitable for using a pin - I've never done so but others use nothing else, so it can be done.

Personally I often find a 000 or 0 size brush with a good tip better than a very fine (5/0 or 10/0) size as it has more give and I get better control. And while I'm plugging my 1337 skillz I'll point out as an example Icebreaker, who was painted entirely with 1 and 0 brushes. The brushes often don't last in this condition very long so I do also use the smaller brushes, but I prefer to use a 000 or 0 for detailing.

As for flesh tones, I use a mix of Citadel Elf Flesh (and sometimes Dwarf Flesh) and white. They're all I've ever used so I swear by them.

I do the exact same thing for my flesh tones, I use 2 parts Elf Flesh to 1 part Dwarf Flesh and then a tiny bit of white. As far as brushes for eyes, I used a 18/0 brush that is available at Michaels. Below is a picture of the brush so you if you want to look for one you know what it looks for.

http://i157.photobucket.com/albums/t62/ ... 0_0135.jpg

_________________

You may want to investigate buying a set of resin dyes. These turn the liquid resin to the desired color, which isn't just a surface coat, but impregnated in the resin. Gives you consistent, reproducable results.

As for eyes, I use a very fine "liner" brush to paint the whites, and the same brush to paint the irises. For the pupils I use a Rapidograph pen with Higgins Black Magic ink. They're available in a variety of line weights, and as long as you care for the pens they'll last forever. You can even use them for eyebrows, moustaches, etc.

I believe, though I can't remember where, if you paint the actual mold before casting, then the paint will adhere to the casting. I've only used Alumilte so far and haven't tried the technique myself, but thought I'd toss out the idea. For eyes, I usually use a toothpick for the whites, and a needle for the rest.

_________________

I file down the tip of the stickpin for the pupils/irises. Just take like .5-1mm off the tip, that should do it. And I dip it in whatever paint's in the cap, not the actual bottle. You'll get too much paint.

_________________

thanks guys. i ended up goinng out and getting a very small 10/0 brush that works perfectly