hm. possibly -- i don't know if these drawers are deep enough -- they are less than 2" deep, also, the latches themselves would take up drawer space..

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here is how i spent my budget for the last month +

from MicroMark:

A: a 'thin beam' square -- it allows for squaring up very thin stock

B: a 'nibbler' -- used to nibble, or bite, plastic, etc.

C: a small wire bending jig

D: decal transfer paper and fixer (and a wooden rule they threw in)

E: Model Pal: a suction cup/needle tool for holding very small parts while gluing

F: 4x soft side Excel xactos -- with the hex non-roll ends

G: a Zona saw & miter box with extra blades

H: and the big purchase: a Chopper II cutter (like a cross between a paper cutter and a scissors/shear) with a box of extra razor blades and a spare self-healing mat

all in all -- a bunch of cool hobby stuff....

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good "LASER BLAST" JM. you an also get yerself a NICE tabletop bandsaw at lowes for $99. they also have a nice selection of micro size vices.

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+1 for DJ

I have been thinking about this some more and realized something was bugging me about this.

When I got up today I knew what it was.

If you haven't done the drilling yet, there might be something else that needs done for this to work.

Right now as it stands there is nothing in the top section to secure the threaded rod. I suppose you could use one of the wires that come wrapped around all our toy vehicles to secure them in the packaging, but what would really work is an eye hook.

Now I don't know how thick the walls of the box are, so it is possible the eye hook once screwed in could protrude and snag on something.

If you were to glue a small square piece of wood into one of the corners (even a kid's aplphabet block), then you could simply screw the eye hook into that. Then drill down through the eye hook (or mark with a pencil).

The block could also be used as a pin cushion if need be (I use the thumbtacks with the plastic tips for various things when customizing).

Again, I don't know the thickness of the wood on the bottom, but you would need to drill a small whole in the bottom section to catch the bottom of the threaded rod.

I would also suggest taking flat washers and glue them down in each drawer over the hole so you don't end up scratching/damaging the drawer when inserting the rod.

Oh, and I took another look at that chest my Grandfather made. The drawers are back of the bottom/top/sides to allow a panel to be inserted to cover the entire drawer part. Access through the lid top allows one to insert the two three-inch metal rods into the holes which catch in the two holes in the front panel. I forgot that part...

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..
If you haven't done the drilling yet, there might be something else that needs done for this to work.

Right now as it stands there is nothing in the top section to secure the threaded rod. I suppose you could use one of the wires that come wrapped around all our toy vehicles to secure them in the packaging, but what would really work is an eye hook.

actually, i'm planning on making the rod long enough to fit in a hole drilled in the bottom, and protruding slightly in the top -- the top area (with lid down) is 2" or less deep, so at the very worst (tipping the box upside down?) -- only the bottom drawer would come loose --

Now I don't know how thick the walls of the box are, so it is possible the eye hook once screwed in could protrude and snag on something.
yeah, they're pretty thin, as are the sides of the drawer fronts, and the drawer fronts don't go all the way to the edge -- i already thought about this, as well as using hasps --

....

I would also suggest taking flat washers and glue them down in each drawer over the hole so you don't end up scratching/damaging the drawer when inserting the rod.
Another good idea!

Oh, and I took another look at that chest my Grandfather made. The drawers are back of the bottom/top/sides to allow a panel to be inserted to cover the entire drawer part. Access through the lid top allows one to insert the two three-inch metal rods into the holes which catch in the two holes in the front panel. I forgot that part...

hm, yeah, nothing like that here --

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